Well, myexleriences there were quite different in June. But Italian is my first language, even though it had been 24 years since my last visit to Italy. I grew up partially in Livorno, having spent 3 years total on 2 occasions and returning for summer vacations to Italy when possible in the intervening years.
I am not an expert in Firenze as I was quite young when visiting bi-monthly in those 3 years (I had cousins there). Of course we visited almost the same amounts during summers until my mother's immediate family moved to different parts of Italy. I know enough about Firenze and more importantly what to avoid.
Now C-19certainly changed things, hence the timed entries and falling behind schedules (mostly due to not compensating for paid tours, which I would recommend to someone new to the Duomo as you avoid lines and have a guide telling you interesting things)
The Ponte Vecchio indeed gets packed, as do the tourist shopping areas, etc. Firenzeus probably the number 2 most visited city in Italy and it's scale makes handling large amounts of people, less that ideal. You do not have the wide avenues of Rome, nor is the scale of the buildings quote as large as Rome or Milano.
I am not sure what the purpose of the air quality mention is? When it's hit, air quality suffers. The fact that pedestrian only zones exist in most Italian cities has done a lot to improve air quality, too. We had zero issues in June, nor did we have air quality issues in Torino, Milano, Veneto, Bologna, Roma, Napoli, etc. We certainly hit lots of people and crowds as the summer progressed, including the added stop for the Tour De France. But I don't think we hit anything like the amounts of people in parts of Manhattan on a warm weekend. We also rarely ate close to heavily visited tourist areas with the exception of Roma as our hotel was one block away from the Spanish steps.
By the time we reached Firenze, we had been to four major Duomo and the ancient one in Ravenna. So for us, going inside was missed, unfortunately.I did want to show the tombs of the famous to the family but I am much more into history then they are. I do remember it being fantastic from serious trips and it is my favorite in Italy. Milano Is bigger by far but Firenze Is very special.
Anyway, although I am half Italian, my immediate family isn't. So we were very much the foreign tourists..alAnd things do change over time. I had a heck of a time with Milano's subway system vs any other city. Luckily my rusty Italian improved by the hour but I think most tourists can easily get confused for sure. But I digress here.
Sorry your experience wasn't more positive but I think you poorly researched things ahead of time. That stationary store is small, like most traditional Italian shops. It's crowded because they are one of the best around. Quality brings customers.
A lot more research and planning should be done when going to somewhere like Firenze. Things are different and this is a great thing to be celebrated. Much better than our cookie cutter suburbs, malls and chain stores in the United States.
It is always funny reading Modugno's weekly rant. Old guys never bring anything good to the table.
Brava Jennifer. I would have added Did you walk up the narrow stairs in the Monastary, turn a corner and be struck dumb by the sheer glory of FRA Angelico’s The Annunciation in situ? If you don’t know, you don’t know.
Go to Florence anytime but holidays and Summer. Read up so you know what you'll encounter. Be prepared for long lines and waits; you're visiting a magical city that is on 99% of travelers' bucket lists. Get off the beaten path for restaurants filled with locals. There's a big Florence world there; you just have to have some flexibility to find your niche. Oh, and thanks for the really great photos! Ciao!
You did not capture the magic of Florence. I’m sorry you did not have that experience.
The area is inherently walkable. We have multiple existing paseos which already create vehicle free corridors, and if anything feel safer than the "pedestrian promenade" which is little more than a highway for e-bikes. We don't need to address "walkability" or "pedestrian friendliness" first - we need to just build the damn housing. This is putting the cart so far ahead of the horse, which is why it's done nothing to "fix" State Street in the five years it's already been in place. Those touting the slightly higher leased figures in recent years as an argument for the promenade should be honest about the caliber of businesses on State versus in the past.
Right? I actually felt safe crossing the street when cars were on State. They seemed more likely to stop at lights than e-bikes.
How was State St. not pedestrian friendly before cars were removed? Except during parades, I never saw the sidewalks so full of people that they weren't pedestrian friendly.
I couldn't disagree more about "making that stretch one-way for cars" on State Street, which would be the ultimate half-measure (see: 1200 block, which should go back to fully closed except maybe for drop-offs for Granada events). We optimize for car traffic all over the city - let's embrace having a bike- and pedestrian-friendly downtown. The issue isn't lack of car traffic; it's perverse incentives for commercial leases, the opportunity to build more dense housing (vs. hotels) in the area, and yes, the temporary state of some of the implementations. But we need to take the long view here - it's about creating a vibrant, walkable environment optimized for residents with more apartments, condos, markets, gathering spaces, and community events.
The only way to see old Florence is to wait in long lines and be amongst throngs of people like yourself. And in summer you will be in sweltering heat and you will breathe the fumes of mopeds scurrying down the narrow streets, which become canyons which trap the smoke. The only way you can experience and enjoy Modern Florence is to find out where the locals eat and go there. You will find familles and friends - all Italian of course. No one will be speaking English, but the food will be incredible.
Mostly, Florence is a tourist trap. I'd go for the art, history and the sense of beauty if you can get away from the crowds. And the few great restaurants if I could get in. The smaller towns in Italy is where you can find friendliness, hospitality and real people.
BTW, I think if Erik did not offer critiques or honesty, but only fluff, there would be no point to his articles. Just go through any old travel book like Lonely Planet or Rick Steves. They will make any destination look like 'The Best' thing that you could ever visit. I think it's better to know what you are getting yourself into prior to going: The good, bad and all that lies between. Or perhaps travel should be compared to going to a movie. As my daughter always says, don't think it will be great, don't believe the hype, lower your expectations and you'll have a good time. Just sayin'.
Could not agree more about State St. Fish, or cut bait. I favored the idea of a pedestrian promenade years before it was done. There were several town halls devoted to concepts like this well before COVID. Seeing it in practice, I no longer feel that way. We are wasting money and time trialling corny projects that are all done in half-assed, cheap feeling ways. How could one even measure the "success" of a project like the one stated? Such a joke. Among the solutions for downtown include adding more market rate housing, and returning public places to the actual public, not the select few homeless who have unfortunately spoiled public resources for the many. Everything else being done on State St. feels like moving deck chairs around on the Titanic.
I am excited that they’re trialing and testing different things so we know what works when they finally build the master plan!
Also, there is already a 2-way bike path down the middle. Not sure what bringing back a car lane would fix, you can just take chapala and can’t park on state anyway.
Wow. What a complainer! It would have been better if you had eaten better? What's better than Florentine food? I lived in Florence for a year + while I admit, the crowds are a bit overwhelming and they do love their dogs, hint hint, it's such a fabulous place that that it has earned a permanent spot in my heart. Did you go to a chamber orchestra in one of the ancestral Palazzi? Did you go to the Palazzo Davanzati? How about the Casa Buonaroti? I stayed in a convent the last time I visited and had a beautiful, quiet and peaceful visit where I could hear the bells ringing for Mass. You sound like a miserable person, however your photos are great!
And you seem like a real peach.
Tamara there is no need to announce that you are cooking your healthy meals sister! Just keep on doing what’s right for you and there is no need to let everyone know. We don’t care.
R.
Tamara there is no need to announce that you are cooking your pie healthy meals sister! Just keep on doing what’s right for you and there is no need to let everyone know. We don’t care.
R.
Thank-you for this response to an oddly negative review written by one who is clearly undeserving if the ‘gift’ before her. The birthplace of the Renaissance, the Art that is ever-present and breathtakingly beautiful, the Medici marvel. My heart sank when I read the description of Michelangelo’s ‘David’.
First off I’d like to compliment you on your photography. You have some great shots! My girlfriend and I have been to Florence three times, and I’m so excited to take my adult children there in August. As you may guess by what I’ve written so far our experience is a bit different than yours. In fact, it is our desire to move there upon retirement. I get what you’re saying about the crowds, but there’s a reason for that. There are certain things you did not mention that I’m assuming you did not do that I highly recommend if you go back. First, the city is super walkable. Stay in less touristy areas like Oltrarno or the east side of city center. Second, speaking of Oltrarno, eat in Oltrarno. That’s where the locals eat. They have amazing trattorias there. Try Trattoria Giovanni. They have the best Pappardelle al Cinghiale! It’s the first and only time I’ve wept upon trying a dish for the first time. Third, climb to the top of Brunelleschi’s Dome. It is an amazing architectural feat. Plus the view from the top terrace is beautiful! Third, go to the Ufizzi Museum. It is one of the best museums in the world! Fourth, aperitivo at a rooftop bar. Fifth, lunch at Mercato Centrale. Sixth, Great idea to hit Piazzale Michelangelo, but did you stay for the sunset? One of the best sunsets you’ll ever see. Bonus, get a pizza at Pizzeria Antico Porta. It is delicious! I hope you go back to Florence. It is such an amazing city. Cheers!
God you seem absolutely wretched. I’m so glad everyone in Firenze treated you poorly and I hope you don’t come back. What did you expect? People like you with dumb travel blogs ruin places for everyone else…so…maybe go your own way and stop with this pedantic journaling.
Perhaps we should just call it NoGo then
Beautiful photography. Mine pale in comparison.
Mission City looks yum and I like their branding.
I agree with you William! And I've been living in Florence for a year now.
Agree 100%! I thought the review exhibited ignorance.
I stopped reading there!
