The Most Magical City in the World

Many years ago, when my husband, Adam, suggested we go to Venice, I resisted. The city struck me as too touristy, not a real place, blah blah blah. I gave in, and it was one of those rare marital moments where we were both right: Venice is touristy and not very “real,” but I loved it anyway. Fundamentally unique, the city belongs in a fantasy novel; it shouldn’t exist, and of course, someday it probably won’t.

So when friends floated the idea of New Year’s Eve there, we got right onboard. It was far more ambitious than in years past—we don’t typically do anything for the holiday besides go to a dinner party or, if no one invites us over, roast a chicken.

I don’t care if you never take my travel advice, with one exception: when flying into Venice, you must take a water taxi to the city proper. There is no better airport transfer on earth.

The canals are impossibly photogenic, perhaps even more so in the winter light.

Wandering is the best part, and since GPS works much better than it used to, you’re less likely to get hopelessly lost. The city is like a playground for adults, with bridges, porticoes, narrow passageways, tunnels, and dead ends. And no cars!

Can you imagine reaching your home via a footbridge? Or better yet, via a water entrance?

I could return tomorrow, walk the same streets—or whatever they’re called when there are no cars—and I’d discover totally different details. 

There’s no point in trying to play it cool like you might in New York or Paris, staring straight ahead and acting like nothing is interesting. You have to look up, down, and all around. The last photo below is of the Olivetti Showroom, and I stared through the window at the mosaic floor like someone else would at a Birkin.

Of course, you might also come upon something that tugs at your heartstrings. Embedded in the sidewalk, these are memorials to people murdered in the Holocaust, which I had only seen in Berlin.

This video does a nice job of explaining how the city came to be—the engineering is insane. And if you make it all the way through, you’ll learn that the plazas are used to collect rainwater, with wells in the center.

Even quotidian services are different here.

I felt like I earned bonus points for coming upon a laundromat.

It’s probably weird to say that the doorbells are one of my favorite things about the city, but they’re gorgeous.

I love them even more when people take them up a notch.

Best of all are the intercom panels that resemble faces.

I went to the Valese Foundry shop to see if I could buy a doorknob, just as a keepsake, but the only one on the floor was of an African face, and I thought it might give the wrong impression. The shop also had decorative bronze dishes that I wanted to buy but didn’t, because I told myself that I don’t need more things. I regret that now.

Look at this one, worn away over the years.

I also regret not buying some pink slippers at Piedaterre. I’m on the verge of embracing color as a way of forcing younger people to acknowledge my existence.

The photos so far have made the city look rather empty; it was not. The central San Polo and San Marco areas were jammed with people, which was often a drag. With the exception of the awful area by the train station, the situation improved the farther we went from the center of the city.

That may be why—and I say this with no disrespect to my husband or friends!—the highlight of the trip, for me, was a long walk I took alone at dawn. (I was fed up with lying in bed, fighting the jet lag.) The city was even more beautiful with no one around, save the delivery guys.

I stopped by the Rialto Market right as it was opening.

As the sun came up, the buildings seemed to glow.

And the Basilica di San Marco, Palazzo Ducale, and Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana were simply breathtaking.

I had intended to tour the Palazzo Ducale, but the online ticketing was baffling, and I refused to spend any time in a line. We did make it to the Scuola Grande di San Rocco, famous for the Tintoretto paintings all over, including on the ceiling, which you can view by holding a mirror out in front of you.

The building itself was also magnificent.

Described as a “hidden staircase” by Further Magazine (a new digital publication founded by fellow Travel + Leisure alums whose advice I trust), the Scala Contarini del Bovolo may or may not be a secret, but it certainly is striking, with great views at the top.

There’s also a viewing terrace atop the Fondaco di Tedeschi department store, but we learned too late that you have to reserve in advance. The dramatic atrium and lipstick-red escalator were worth a visit anyhow.

We stayed at a year-old hotel called Violino d’Oro, just west of Piazza San Marco. While the interiors have tremendous style, the HVAC was problematic: the temperature kept resetting to 23 degrees Celsius (73.4 degrees Fahrenheit), and the only the front desk could lower it (to 21, or maybe 20). And then it would reset again. At this price point, I expect to be in charge.

If we return to Venice, and I hope we do, we’ll stay further out from the busy center. That means using the vaporetto (i.e., boat bus) more frequently, which is fine with me. The more time on the water in Venice, the better.

And it beats paddling yourself like this guy did (although I do dream of a day when people can kayak the canals). UPDATE 1/27: Jeremy recommended Real Venetian Kayak, which leads tours in the city.

We weren’t up for a touristy gondola ride, but we did end up on a gondola anyway. There are spots where gondolas called traghetti are used as ferries across the Grand Canal.

As for food, we loved a coffee and pastry at Pasticceria Rizzardini…

…and cocktails at the old-school Bar Longhi inside the Gritti Palace hotel. (Try the wild fennel martini.) And La Barrique is a terrific wine bar—we wished we’d eaten there instead of at nearby Nevodi, which underwhelmed.

On a beautiful afternoon, there may be no prettier spot for lunch that Ristorante Riviera.

The two restaurants I would recommend wholeheartedly are Antiche Carampane (below) and Al Covo.

Wherever you dine in Italy, be prepared for extensive allergen notations on the menu. It’s apparently an EU regulation, although we didn’t see it anywhere in Paris last summer.

As for New Year’s Eve, we had an excellent, and very fun, dinner at Ai Gondolieri, followed by watching the fireworks at several spots, including the packed Accademia Bridge. I had been convinced the crowds would be overwhelming, but the city was entirely civilized, at least where we were, far from the waterfront near Piazza San Marco.

The trip was a fabulous, glamorous lark—we’ll probably never again celebrate New Year’s in such high style. But we may need to aim higher than roast chicken.

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Previous travel coverage:
••• One and Done in Sedona
••• A Proper Visit to Santa Monica
••• A Quickie in San Francisco
••• Dipping a Toe Into Southern Corsica
••• The Exquisite Luxury of Taking Paris for Granted
••• Santa Rosa Island in One Day
••• Soaking Up History at Castle Hot Springs
••• Driving Through the Heart of Hokkaido
••• Tokyo Is a World Unto Itself
••• Paso Robles, Pinnacles National Park, and Beyond
••• A Review of the Inn at Mattei’s Tavern
••• Another Quickie in L.A.
••• Sitting Pretty at the One & Only Mandarina
••• The Mysteries of Istanbul
••• Palm Springs: Midweek at the Oasis
••• Exploring the Sea Caves of Santa Cruz Island
••• A Summer Swing Through the Northeast
••• Why Is Everyone Going to Portugal?
••• Patagonia Made Easy
••• A Quickie in L.A.
••• From Penthouse to Pavement in Mexico City
↓↓↓ Do Greek Islands Live Up to the Fantasy?
••• Splendid Isolation at Utah’s Lodge at Blue Sky
••• Three Reasons to Visit Paso Robles Now
••• The Rebirth of the Cuyama Buckhorn

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Comment:

15 Comments

Lisa Soldo

Wonderful post! It’s been way too long since I was last in Venice. For sure, the best part of a well-planned trip is the surprises that one discovers. Thank you!!

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Deirdre Hughes

What a wonderful article,I am travelling there with my two sons in September and having read your article I can’t wait. Gracie mile.

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Jeremy

Great article! It is possible to kayak the canals of Venice. I’d be happy to share the tour company info if you are interested—it was absolutely a highlight.

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Chris Kroos

My first of five visits to Venice was as a college student in 1968. The mystic, charm, warmth, beauty and uniqueness have not diminished. Go sample it’s magic while you can!

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June Hendrickson

My dream is to spend a week in Venice, revisit the same places and discover new ones, including a night at the opera! Some dreams can come true.

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Michael Angelo Carmona

One of my all-time favorite cities in the world 🌎 is Venice and its surrounding towns and villages, with lace… ! glass, …! gastronomical, delights, sipping a glass of wine while sitting in Saint Mark Square ………! and listening to the musicians 🎻🎷🎼magical… secrets of the hotel Cipriani & Daniele, just a magical place…! thank you for sharing all those exquisite photos, it’s takes me right back, and now I can’t wait to go back ! Ciao , and milligrams 🙏

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John s

Beautiful city but too many crowds.Just hope my wallet is enjoying its extended stay .Watch out ..thieves are every where and the police don’t care.

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Lynda Stuart

This is the best travel piece i have ever seen on Venice.
I have been several times..and now want to go back and retrace your steps.
Beautiful photography!

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Jennifer Cheyne

Spectacular. I never had a desire to spend time there, but now i do. Especially the walk at dawn. And the winter light in your photos. (We’re they taken with just an iPhone??)

I feel like I’ve just been on vacation. Going to show the wife!

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Margery Harrop

Nice place to visit but wouldn’t want to live there. New Fascist stopped the much needed clean up of the waters. Residents must live in tiny apartments above waters with raw sewerage from all buildings. Work at hotels as gondeliers for low wages as Italy’s new rulers dictate now.

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Warren Trout

I travel Europe 4-6 months every year. I couldn’t wait to get out of Venice. The hoards of people made it miserable

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Carol Phillips

Wonderful post. Pictures appreciated too. Brought back memories of our Venice trip many moons ago. I too took a singular walk in the wee morning hours, enjoying the city to myself. Watching water deliveries, the solitude of the narrow streets, and the beauty of sunrise. Your post makes me want to go back. Thank you!

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Janet Jensen

I enjoyed the walk with you through Florence and Venice. I’ve been to both cities but always interested in travel experiences.

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